Scotland of Assam:Haflong Tlang-ah

TRAVELOGUE: INZINNA

Scotland of Assam:Haflong Tlang-ah

Mizohâiin Ngâibântlâng ei ti, North Cachar Hills District Autonomous Council ṭhut-hmun Haflong hi Assam ram sûnga Tlângram Khawpui umsun a niha, hi khawpui a hin Tlângmi chi hrang hrang Dimasa, Zeme Naga bâkah Zohnâthlâk Hnam chi hrang hrang an um bawk a, chuong lâia a tam tak chu Hmar ṭawng hmanghâi hi an nih. Hmar ṭawng hmang Hmar hnam bâkah, mâni chibil ṭawng hmang Hmar hnam iemani zât an um bawk a, sienkhawm hilâi khawpui le a sê vêla umhâi chun Hmar ṭawng an hriet tlânglâwn hle el. Haflong khawpui hi Mizo hnam pumpui ta ding khawma hmun pawimaw tak lo ni tah a, Mizoram buoi lâia mitam tak râltlâna sanhimna an zawngna hmun a nih a, chu el khêla Welsh Mission in hilâi hmuna ṭhut hmun a rem ṭan tir lâia Mizo pastor le tirko iemani zâtin rawng an bâwl ṭanna a ni bawk. Tulem hin sawrkâr tienga khawm hmun pawimaw tak el, India ram pumpui sûnga khawm Autonomous Council hmasatakhâi lâia pakhat a niha, hmun pawimaw tak el a nih. Chuonghai lei ringawt khawm chun  Haflong inzinna chanchin  hi tiem chi tak ning a tih!

Guwahati-Lumding:  India Hmarsak kawtsuo Guwahati Railway Station, Panbazar a’nthawk chun zing dar 6:30 a.m in Jan Satabdi Express Rêl a chun kan hei intâwl suok mêk a, Brahmaputra phâi ti takah phâi lien tak tak, incham diei elhâi chu Rêl chun kan hraw thleng peia, kan rêl chuongna pindan chu D4 a n’a, chu sûnga chun Haflong fe ding vâi, tlângmi hmel dang dang le Hmar ṭawng hmang ngêi khawm tamtak an chuong veha, Haflong Rêl tak a ang khawp el. Rêl sûnga chuonghâi chu a ṭhen an ina, a ṭhen la ṭhalâi deu ṭhenkhat chun mâni phonehâi themin, ṭhenkhatin an hmeta, ṭhenkhatin hla an ngâia, ṭhenkhat midang leh an inbiek mêk bawk a, puitling tieng met ṭhenkhat chun chanchinbu dâm an tiem a, mi ṭhenkhatin zîng thilfâk an thaw mêk bawk a, rêl sûnga thilzawrtuhâi hlak chun inchat lovin thil an hung zawr zing bawk a, keikhawm ka thawdân pangâiin chanchinbu English ṭawnga inziek kan châwkhâi chu a hmatiemin ka tiem peia, hun fe peiin hmun tamtak le station tamtak kan hraw thleng hnung chun Chaparmukh Junction kan phâk nâwk tah a,  chu taka chun rêl chu a châwla, chu le inruolin ‘garam singara, garam singara’ (singara lum hlawt hlawt, singara lum hlawt hlawt) tiha vâiruol khêka rêl chunga an thil hung zawr chun lungril a tâwka, inchâwk lova infeliem tir a harsa hleh a, fûn khata chêng 10 a ni leiin fûn hni, 20 man kan châwk veha, rêl inthawk nâwk le inruol chun ka hei ṭheta ka fâk nghâla, a la lumin a la thar bawka, ânhnik kher el. Chuonga kan intâwl pei lâi chun Lumding Railway station kanlo tlung dêr el taha, chutaka chun ṭumin rêl chîn lem Haflong khawpui pan dingin an hril Hill Queen Express sûnga chun kan input lût nawk ta a nih.

Lumding-Lower Haflong: Rêl lienpa an ti Jan Satabdi Express a’nthawk kan ṭuma, Rêl chîn lem an hril Hill Queen Express a chuong ding kan ni tah a, a rêl a lo dang tah ang bawkin a dân khawm a lo danglam deu ta chu nîng a tih. Ka umna ding D1, rêl lu tieng pang  chu ka pan a, kawtkhâr bula hming intârna chu ka hei ena ka hming inlang kuou el chu ka hmu leiin a sûnga chun ka lût taha, kan ṭhungna ding hmuna chun vâihâi anlo inṭhung leiin ka ṭhungna ding a ni thu ka hril pêk hnung chun an mîn kien taha, ka baghêi remfelin kan ṭhung tah a, hun sâwtnâwte hnunga chun rêl khawm chu a fe nghâl taha, chawmkhat zo a chun  Assam phâiram chu mâksanin Assam tlângram,  North Cachar Hills district, tûta Dima Hasao tih a an ko tâk ram sûng chu kan hraw ṭan tah a, tlâng chi tê tê hmu ding a um ta bawka, rêllam sîr vêlah tlânglo dâm ei hei hraw thleng bawka, lungril khawm a hâdam ṭan ta hle el.  Keikhawm chu chuonga N.C Hills ram rêlin a hei hraw ṭan ta phing chun um ṭawk ṭawk ta lovin ka bag sûnga ka camera chu ka phawra chuongchun hi ram mâwinahâi chu ka thei ang anga ka camera sûnga khum lût tumin ṭhanghmun ka rem ṭha sauh sauh tah a, kan ṭhungna bul tuver a’nthawk chun ka camera chun chu ram mâwinahâi chu ka tin zing tah a, ka mit le ka ngâituonaa mâwi le ṭha ka tihâi chu ka camera sûngah ka khumlût ta peia. Chuonga rêl an tâwla kan  fe pei hnung khawm chun Hmarhâi hnung ti ding rêng rêng khawm ka la hmu chuong nawh a, a umsunhâi khawm râusan lo nitah in rampui an changzo ta si. Rêl sûnga ka chuongpui vâiruol hlak chun hi ram ka ngâinatna le khuonu kutsuok mâwi ka ti êm êm, hi lâi rama a kutsuok mâwina a sie nasat zuol bîk ka ti ziehâi anmi hrietpui awm si nawh a, ka camera a’nthawka chuong mâwina ka khumlûthâi hlutzie khawm anmi dâwnpui vê âwm dêr si nawh. Nuomin an mi ena, kei a tlângmi pa, a ram neitu inti deuva umpa lem kha anni khan hi mipa hi khâwlâi mi am a ni ding, a iengtak hi’m mâwi a tiha, a lâk a lâk el a nih anmi ti ang hin ka hrieta an um dâna inthawk chun. Anni râwiin rêl sûnga vâi thilzawr a hung lût ta phawt an lo inchâwka, an fâka, a ṭhen an ina, a ṭhen an ti ti lâi chun keiruokchun chuong an thilthaw anghâi zawm ve nêk chun hi lâi ram leilung hin ka lung a lût lema, a ram mâwina le khuonu kutsuok ropui zie hin ka lung a buo lem tlat el.  Rêl lampui sîr hmun tamtak chu tûta an buoipui luoi luoi rêl lienpa hrâwna ding BG Line an ti chu ansiem mêk leiin vâiruol sinthaw anlo um peia, leilâk thar dâm hmu ding a uma, bawkda thar dâm, chu khêla chun National Highway, East West Corridor lampui siem mêka um khawm ânkhât tâwkin hmu ding a uma, chuong lampuihâi ansiemna leia rampui ṭha tak tak an chosiet le pilthar an vûr pâwnghâi khawm hmu ding a um peia, ram sukchangkângna ding le hma a sâwnna ding chun lampui a pawimâw ziehâi dâm a min ngâituo suok tira rampui iemani tâwk lo sukse sienkhawm, a suksiet nêkin a hnunga kum tam tak ei sawr ding ziehâi ka ngâituo sa bawk a. Ka hrietnaw kâr chuonga thla lâk pum le ngâituona dang dang ka nei sûng chun N.C Hills district ram neituha insâl Dimasa hnamhâi khawpui Maibang an ti hmun chu kanlo tlung dêr taha. Chutaka chun mi tamtak an ṭuma, a ṭum zât vêl chu an hung lût bawka, kan chuongna pindan sûnga ṭhungna ruok a hâi khawm chun anhung inṭhung ve tawp tawpa, a  neitu chan changin huoitakin an inṭhung muong tawp el in ka hmu. 

Hi Dimasa khawpui Maibang hi N.C Hills sub-division pakhat ve a niha, amiruokchu ânṭhang hrât naw hle in ka hmuh. Titak êma chu Maibang chauh annawh, N.C Hills sûnga townhâi hrim hrim hi chuonga inṭhang duong ut ut an um nawh,a khawpuitak Haflong khawm hi ânṭhang mâw hle el. Ah, a chuongtieng pang chu la zuk mâksanin ei inzinna kha sunzawm lem ei tih. Maibang khawpui chu mâksanin kan rêl chu ân tâwl nâwk taha, tûta kan hrâwnahâi chu phâi inhawitak el, Dimasahâi leilet hmun a niha, bu an chîngna hmun lientak el a niha, vadung kama um a ni bawka, a hnuoi pil aṭha hle a nih tichu an thil chînghâi a’nthawk mi mi hril ngâilovin ei hriet thei âwm. Leilet bil, incham dieihâi chu hraw khêlin muol inkhang kan hraw ṭan nâwk mêka kei hlak chun ka hmu phawt thla ka lâk peia, tlânglo ka zukhmu le a sîra lo ṭû a khâvt chauha ngîr, khawsâwt hmêl êm êm dâm chu ka zuk hmu nâwk nghâla, lunglêng a sukzuol ngei ie. Daotuhaja anti Railway Station kan tlung chun Rêl dang seizawt el a lo ngîr veha, chu rêl le chun inpêl ding kan lo niha, kan rêl chu châwlin chutaka rêl lo ngîr, Agartala Express, India Hmarsak tâwp, Tripura khawpui Agartala a’nthawka hung chun ami mâksan taha, kan chuongna pindan a hung hraw pêl lâi chun tukver a‘nthawk ka hei dâk chu an rêl sûng chu vâiruol ansip hmur ela, a kawtkhâr le zunin sîr a hâi khawm chun an inṭhung sip vawnga, a chunga êm chu mi an um ka hmunawha amiruokchu khâng lâwm lâwma tam vâiruol ṭawp tak tak el hâi kha iengtizo zâia kha rêl khan a dâwl am a ni ding, khâwtienga khâng zozâi kha hunga khâwtienga fe ding am anni ti hin ka lungril a sukbuoi hlea, India Hmarsakin a buoipui le a tuor êm êm Bangladeshihâi hi Tripura ram a’nthawka rêla hung intawlh lûtin Assam ram sûng lâilung tieng Brahmaputra Valley a hâihin umhmun an hung khuor am a ni ding ti dâm ka ngaituoha, State ṭhenkhat, Meghalaya le Mizoramin hieng lâwma an ram sûnga rêl lût an phalnâw hi hieng vâiruol tamtakhâi hung lut ding an inlâu a ni hih thil âwm tak a nih ti dâm ka ngaituosa bawk a, a hma a ka lo âwimâw hlak kha tûta ṭum chu hieng state pahnihâi hi kan thiemnaw chuong tanaw hle. Daotuhaja kan mâksan hnung chun rêllam thar ansiemnahâi tamtak kan hrawha,  kan rêl chu a fê naw’m a ni ti dingin kan station mâksan hnung  khawm chu kan la hmuthei zinga, kei hlak chun remchânga la in thla ka la zuk lâk nâwk peia, kan hmâtieng chun lampui thlangah sipai camp hi a lo uma, mâwitaka inhuonin thingtlângpa style takin an cheia, a umna leh inhme in khâwsâwt khawm a sukzuol hle el. Kan rêl chu a fê muong deu deu, a thâutui a bo tum amani ding ti khawpin a fê muonga, a hnungah ka zuk enchieng chun lamtung hrâw hi a lo nizinga, chu el chu nilovin ânkuol hi a lo niha, chuongchun kan hrâwzona sahâi chu a tharin kan hmunâwk peia, sâwttak hnunga kan hraw khêl tah Daotuhaja station khawm kha kanla hmuzinga, ka lungril tê tê in  mâni ngâizâwnghâi khuo nisien bah lâwm a um ding, ei ngâi ngâwi ngâwi ei enchimlo dîtêhâi khuo nisien, kha railway station kha ei in mangṭhatna hmun nisien la, an khuo ei mâksana ei fekhêl hnung khawmin eila zuk hmuthei ta rawp ding a na ka tiha.

 Hilâi lampui hienga inkuol taka ansiem nasan le ei kîr nâwk nasan  an hril ka hriet chu, hilâi rêllam ansiem lâia a enkâitu hotupa tak kha a nuhmei le a hnuoia thawk ruol ṭhenkhat leh rêllampui en ding chun an hunga, ṭûta lam inkuol na lâi vêl an hung phâkin a hmatienga lampui nawrh pei dân ding a um ta si nawha, a buoita hlea, thaw ngâina a hriet ta si nawh, chuonga lungngaitaka a um lâi chun a nuhmei vartak el chun ‘go back’ tiin a hrila, a nuhmei chun hmatieng râllampui nawrh pei ngâina a um tanaw chun hnungtieng intâwl kîr naâwk el rawh tiha thurâwn tlawmte a pêk, go back a ti tak chun a lungril a tâwk êm êma, chutaka inthawk chun rêl lampui chu hung inkuolin hnungtieng bawk a kîr niin an hrila, chuongchun hnungtieng iemani chen an kuolkîr nâwk hnung chun hmâtieng pan theina lampui awlsam a lo um a ni âwma. Hi lampui siemdân chanchin hin ei hringnun lampui khalna tak taka khawm inchûktir ding ṭhatak ami siem pêka, ei hringnun kal pênna a hin a chângchun lampui tâwpin hmâtieng fê sap ngâina a um naw châng a uma, chuong huna chun la hang tâwp tê tê inla, hang châwlhadam inla, chu hnunga chun hnungtieng hang fe kîr nâwk met inla chuongchun ei hmatieng intâwl theina lampui hung um nâwk el dingin ring a um takzet…. Ah, eilo pêt hmang sei rêk ta de…. A pawi chuongnawh, inchûk ding dâm hei nei eita maw… Awle, Phiding eilo tlung dêr ding anta hi, chuonga rêl muongtaka a fê dem dem lâi chun Phiding station chu kan tlung nâwk hi a lo niha, hitaka hin chu a châwl nawha, kan fe thleng peia, Phiding kan zuk khêl met chun a hnuoitieng pangah station thar ding anbâwl hi a lo uma, a ropui hmêl khawp el. Chuongchun hmâtieng intâwl peiin kan rêl khawm chu a hmanêkin inhmâwin a fe hrât ṭan taha, Leilâk dâm hrawin bawkda sei tak khawm kan hrawha, lampui sîr vêl a hâi chun hnâchang bil dâm, chun tlânglo eini mi lo niâwm takhâi dâm chu a uma, lovahâi chun mihriem sinthaw khawm an um bawka, chuongchun bawkda seitak kan hraw hnung chun khuo ang deu kan lût nghâla, lampui sîra hâi chun in tamtak a lo um bawka, mihriem khawm anlo inkat nuka, kan zuk fê met chun Mahur station a lo nitaha, nakie ta bawkda kan hrâwzo chauh khawm kha N.C Hills a bawkda seitak Mahur bawkda an hril kha a lo nizng ta chu!  Station a chun mi anlo tam kher el, Thawlênni Mahur bazaar ni tak hi a lo niha, Haflong a’nthawka bazaar a hung, bazaar kâizo Haflong tieng pan nâwk ding an sip hmur ela, kan pindan sûnga ṭhungna ruokhâi khawm an hluosip vawnga. Mahur station a chun eini mi nupui ṭhenkhatin, fanghma, rêngthei, vâimîm dâm an hung zawra,  fanghma dâwng tuoitê an phelsa, machithak leh an pawl chu ka hei inchâwk veha, inhnik ka va ti kher deh aw…. Rêl chu Mahur a chun a châwl sâwt naw kherh ela, ân pâwta, ân tâwl nâwk nghâl taha, chuonga stationa mi tamtak hung lûthâi chuh eini mi ṭawng hmang khawm an so ela, kan pindan khêltienga um nûpui ruol Mahur bazaar kâi an um a ni âwma, an tî tî ka zuk hrietna a’nthawk chun Haflong mi Mahur bazaar hmêruo, thlâihâi van châwha Haflong bazaara zawr sâwng hlak anni âwma, hmêruo man to tâk zie thu dâm an hrila, a hnungah an insûng chanchinhâi dâm an hril kâi bawka, an ṭawng chu an ring ṭha leiin  an thil hrilhâi chu thurûk a umnaw bawka, fie takin eilo hriet zur zur theia, chuonghâi ṭawng ka ngâithlâk khawm nilo, ka na sûnga hung lût el chun a milo sukbuoi deu nîng a tih ka thla lâktumhâi khawm ka theinghil pha hiela, chuongchun kawtkhâr bul tieng ka pana, thlangtieng pang chu thlîrin, tlângmâwitak sûmin a bâwm chiei hâi dâm chu mâwi êm êm in ka hmua, boruok khawm ân thieng ṭhaha, ânhawi kher el…..Rêl chu ân tâwl hrât peia, râllam thlang a chun Mahur vadung a luonga, a khêl tieng panga chun tûta motor lampui thar ansiem mêk east west corridor, national highway thar hlawk chu a uma, official-a hawngna a la umnaw leiin motor tlân chu anla um nawha, pakhat pahni lampui siemhâi motor tibâk chu a um nawha, anzo huna motor tlân hei tam ding zie le mahur le haflong inkâr khawm hun sâwtnâwte hnunga ei tlung el thei ding zie hâi ka ngaituo suoka, ka phûr thar hlea, ka hlim hle bawka,  chuonga ka’n nui vur vur lâi chun ka camera hmâi tak chu ruo mal hin a hung theha, ruo a lo sûr zing a nih ti ka hriet chauva, ruo a sûr ti ah, ruomal tla, a phîn ang hi a niha, boruok a sukin-hawiin Guwahati lumtak a’nthawka ei hung khawm ei theinghil rawng rawng el a, ngâibân thlifîm ka lo dawng zing antah ti ka hriet suoka, ka lungril khawm a hlim sunzawm hle.  Pindan sûngtieng chun  ka va lûta ka ṭhung hmuna chun kân ṭhung nâwk tê têa, ka bula chun  mirâwng Zeme Naga pakhat le Thadou papui niawm tak hi an tî tî mêka, chuonglâizing chun kan khêltienga Haflong nûpui nakieta ka hril tahâi khan Independent Kohran Hla  khawsâwt umtak chu ansak ri hlawp hlawpa, an râwl a’nthawk chun kum 45-50 vêl nita dingin ka zuk ringa,  an thiem chu ka ti nawh, amiruokchu an hlasak a thu chun a mi zim kherh el…… Ka bula inṭhung pâpui pahnihâi chun Haflong ṭawng, Haflong Hindi a chun tî tî sepin Council chungchâng an hrila, tûlâi hlaw lâk infûknaw thu le anharsatna hâi an hrila, Council Member hâi an awimâw thu le mipui tamlem harsatna khawm ngâisaklova an umthu hâi an hrila, a hnunga chun IPF (Indigenous People’s Forum, Non-Dimasa pâwl inzawmkhâwm)  chungchângah an pakâia, kei chu kalo intîm meta, Dimasa dâm lo chuong palh anti tî kân lâu khera, a vângneia siemin an chuongnaw chu ni âwm a n’a, an thuhril pakhat ka hriet chu bifurcation, ram inṭhe, inṭhe tilo hin ei hlâwhâi ṭhataka ei lâktheina ding le Council indiktaka a function theina ding le ei ramah a taka development a tlung theina dingin IPF hin hma la lem sienla ti an nuomthu an hrila, an thu hril chu ka ngâi ve dân tak a ni leiin zuk ṭawng ve ka nuom hlea chuh ka Hindi thiemna ( haflong hindi) khawmin a dainaw zie ka hrieta, to ṭawkin ka ngâilem ta mei meia, ka lungril tê tê in Mahur le Haflong inkâra Hill Queen-a chuong hi chu a manhla hle el, mipui hai râwl chi hrang hrang ei hrieta, a ram rorêl dân le mipui mimir chanchin hrietna takin ei hmanga ka t’a, a ni rênga, kha po hun sâwtnâwte sûng khan chanchin iemani zât pawimâw tak tak chu ka zuk hriet hmana, ka hlâwkpui hle el. Amiruokchu rêlhâi hi vântlâng mipui ta a niha, mi chi hrang hrang um khâwmna a ni leiin a châng chun a boruok ei kâwl vêla ei chuongpuihâi leh inmila tî tî ei sep khawm a ṭhat châng a um ding a nih ti ruokchu inhmaih chi ninaw nih. Abîktakin Hill Queen a lem hin chu a khing tieng a khingtieng hâi ei chuong vê vê a ni leiin hnam intheidâna khawp hiel thu hrilsuok theina lakah ei lei ei vêng tlat a pawimaw hle bawk.

Kan rêl chuonglâi chu a châwl thuta, a sie amani sâwnin kân ching thut leh station pakhat Migrendisa kanlo tlung hi a lo ni zinga,  hi station Mahur le Haflong inkâra um hi chîn hle sienkhawm a pawimaw ngang chu nîng a tih rel hi a châwlzie ngêi ngêia, a pawimaw nasan ruokchu ka hriet chuong nawh. Kan rêl chu ân tâwlsuok nâwk taha, rêl sûnga ka chuongpuihâi khawm chu an rê tiel tiela, ruo khawm chun tâwp tieng a pan taha, ni a hung  êng ṭan dêk dêka, chawmkhat hnunga chun rêl leilâk insângtak, seitak le lientakel, la thar bawk chu râl a’nthawk hmu theiin a hei um taha, chu leilâk chu râllam thar, rêl lienpa BG Line fêna ding a niha, chu leilâk hnuoi chu tûta kan chuongna rêllam chînpa MG line hin a hraw mêk bawka, keikhawma a pawimaw zie hrein theitâwpin thla ka lâk zing bawka, sâwtnâwte hnunga chun an hril Diyung leilâk hluitak el le kum upa tak el chu kan hrâw ṭan mêk taha, insâng tak le seitak el eilo sâwn hlak kha a saktienga BG Leilâk thar hung um china chun a chîn zie le ân hnuoi zie ei hmusuok chauh a nih. Chu  leilâk hnuoia chun Diyung vadung a luong zing bawka, chun ei mitin hmun dang tiengpang ei zuk inlên chun Haflong tlâng eihmu thei taha, khawsâwt um riei riei le hmu châk um ngâwi ngâwiin ei lung khawm ân phu dut dut el tah. Leilâk chu bawkda in a sunzawma, bawkda ei zuk suokzo chu lampui sîra hâi nûpui le pâpui ṭhenkhat rama fe, thingphur dâm, rawput dâm anlo uma,  ei tlângnêl pha sawt el. Rêl khawm chu a tumram Haflong station a tlung hnâi ta leiin a rî khawm a hma nêkin a suksiet nasa lema, tlân khawm a tlân hrat kherh el. Hieng ang hin lo tlân char char sien chu sâwttak khan kan tlung ta ding bah ka ti lungril deu. Rêl sûnga umhâi khawm an tho sauh sauhva, an phurhâi ansiem ṭhaha, ṭhenkhat kawtkhâr bul tieng anlo intlar tâwl ta bawka, a tâwp a tâwpa chun Haflong khawpui railway station an hril Lower Haflong chu kan tlung ta ngêi  ngêi a ie….Station a chun mi anlo va tam ngêi de. Rêla hung chuonghâi lêt vêla tam chu a hung chuong ding anlo ngîr ṭhup ela,  khâwtieng fê zozâi ding am anni tiin kân ngâituo rawng rawng ela, chuongchun rêl chu a châwl taha hei suok kan tum chu kan suok thei tanaw ela, keini a sûnga umhâi suokzo hma hma in stationa lo umhâi chu hung lût an tum bawk keini suok kan tum bawk kawtkhâra chun indopui a suok a ni deu tak tah, inhneng hrâta inhnengin kan suok thei ta hrâma, vânram kawtkhâr inchu khawm kan hawitak ie. Station a chun hmêl hriet ṭhenkhat dâm ka hmua khawsâwt khawm an suk zuol ngei, Platform a chun ka thuomhnawhâi ka sieha ka la hei inṭhung muong tê tê a,  platform chunga  thil intâr chun ka mit a lâk hlea, “ Châwnbân vâwra hnamtin khuoiang kâina Haflong khawpui-ah Hmar Students Association ha’n k n lawmlût che”  ti a lo inzieka thla a suk muong kher ngei. 

(1st August, 2014, Guwahati, Assam)